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  • I remove calcium from plaster with a water polisher and a cup wheel then moving up the sanding discs to higher and higher numbers until 120 grit for a pool and 300 for a hot tub.Check out my video on the videos page
  • Thank you to all who commented on the problem. I will try some of these suggestions on my next trip in April.
    This is an great tool for all of us to help one another. Thanks Rex.
  • I just noticed that Que posted this past December on calcium sulfate, including photographs which distinguish between the two deposits. You may want to take a look at the Que Hales December 19, 2009 post.
  • You may wish to also check the well source water for the presence of sulfate. Calcium sulfate is much stronger and acid resistant than calcium carbonate, and grows a very distinctive elongated (long and narrow) crystal. If the deposits do not respond to some of the suggested treatments, this might be the problem.
  • We use a spray on chemicaL "Scale Off" that works well on tile surfaces without damaging grout - http://powerblue.us/. For in the pool we use Jack's Magic #2 "Copper and Scale Treatment" with Blue Stuff sequesterant - http://jacksmagic.com/, be sure to follow directions (drop chlorine level, cut out heater, etc). Best of luck, Jeff@stjoepool.com
  • Bob,
    Use a product called bio-dex 300 tile cleaner to get rid of it on the waterline. If available, find a product called Scaletec made by Macgreyel Products to eliminate it from surfaces under water. It is not immediate under water, it most likely will take a couple applications but it does work.
  • These are all tile pools down here and yes there is a thick coating of calcium on all surfaces floors walls everywhere. The water comes from wells and calcium is a problem in the homes as well as pools.
  • By all pool surfaces do you mean not only the waterline tile and water features, but also the plaster? What are the calcium hardness levels in the pool and from the supply water source?
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