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Step 4 – pH Adjustment• If the pH of the fill (tap) water is over 8.2, we add 1 quart of acid to the drum once the drum is full of water.Step 5 – Determining Fill Delay, Turning On the Water• In consultation with the plasterer, we decide when the water will be turned on relative to the crew finishing the pool. We encourage the plasterer to allow at least 6 hours between final troweling and turning on the water.• At the pre-determined time, we ensure that the water is turned on and that the flow through the barrel to the pool is working properly, without leaks.• Working with the homeowner, we ensure that the water fills uninterrupted from main drain to surface tile.Step 6 – Making Adjustments• Once the pool is filled, we double check the pH, which should be right at 8.3. This requires the use of a pH meter, since 8.3 is at the extreme high detection range of phenol red.• We double check the Alkalinity, which should be anywhere from 100 to 350 ppm.• If the pH is 8.2 or higher, we add acid to adjust the pH down to the high 7 range – 7.7 to 7.9ish.• If the Hardness level is below 150 ppm, we add calcium chloride as needed, using the Simplified Dosage Formula for adding Hardness (see below). Be sure the pH is below 8.2 before adding calcium chloride.• We recheck the copper and iron levels and add chelating agents as needed.• We then add cyanuric acid, chlorine, etc. to reach to our target maintenance levels.Step 7 – Monitoring the Progress• Over the course of the next two weeks, we ensure that the pool is being brushed and filtered per the plasterers’ specifications, and chemically maintained per our standards.• For the first month after fill, we allow the alkalinity to remain as high as it was from the start-up, and ensure that the pH remains at 8.2 or lower.Step 8 – Final Balancing• After a month, we begin adding acid until the Alkalinity reaches the target range.• We aren’t in any great hurry to finish that – as long as the pH remains below 8.3, there will be no plaster dust and no scale formation.P.S. For the first month of the bicarb program, it is better to use dichlor for sanitizing instead of liquid bleach or cal hypo due to the high pH effects of these products.Simplified FormulasRaising TA with Sodium Bicarbonate: (Volume ÷ 71,400) x ___ ppm desired change = ___ poundsRaising Hardness with Calcium Chloride: (Volume ÷ 83,000) x ___ ppm desired increase = ___ pounds(Amount in pounds to increase calcium hardness with 77% calcium chloride strength – use 101,700 as divisor for 94% strength)An Interesting Example:This pool/spa combo, featuring black plaster, was set up to be bicarb-started. You can see the barrel and hoses in the background. When we came back that evening, the pool was crystal clear, but the spa looked like it was full of milk (especially once we brushed it!). The homeowner had come home and decided to fill the spa using non-bicarbonate tap water. What a difference!Of course, most would assume that scale would develop because of the high alkalinity level (having a positive LSI). But if the bicarb program is done correctly, scale doesn’t form.The important issue is that new plaster surfaces are soft and not completely hardened and the calcium hydroxide on the plaster surface is somewhat soluble and can be dissolved away by typical balanced water. However, if enough bicarbonate is present or is added to the tap water, the plaster surface, once filled, becomes carbonated within the first month, and a denser, less soluble, and harder surface is the result.onBalance is a consulting group consisting of Kim Skinner, Que Hales, and Doug LattaYou need to be a member of Pool Genius Network™ to add comments!
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