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  Norman Tyree June 17, 2011 at 10:44pm

  About chipping out around returns,

  Over the years I have found that if the pipe passing through the wall does not have a paddle flange you will find it sometimes is lose and the very slow leakage takes the matrick  out of the cement and the leak will grow. I remove about about a  three quarters of an inch around all fittings lights drains and skimmers and seal with a 2 pot epoxy mortar and they never leak. Quite often the pool has a small leak that is not discovered untill the owners comment after the job is done we don`t seam to be using as much water since the refurbishment.
  
  Bill Conant said:

  Around the returns we give it a pretty deep cut and try and expose around a half inch of the pipe if it is an unjetted return that way there is not much chance of water pressure working against the finish. Most times we are doing a complete strip out and are back down to gunite and bust out the material around niches,skimmers and plumbing as deep as practical. 
  
  Jared Mize said:

  When you guys replaster how much do you chip out around returns, drains and tile line?
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  Mike Harris June 17, 2011 at 6:42am

  So that nothing will stick to the plaster, use "Scotch Guard" or any equivalent you can find at a janitor supply.  It will rinse off once the pool is re-filled.  This is also good when pouring a deck to prevent splash from attaching to walls. 
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  Norman Tyree June 16, 2011 at 9:47pm

  Tricks on what to do when replacing the Tiles and Coping but not the plaster.

  Really this is a stupid question that would be best answered by getting a couple of clowns to join you to clean up as you go. I am sure they my be able to find some drummy plaster so you can convince the fools you are doing the work for that the pool needs a  re plaster as well.

  Really when you empty the pool all sorts of thins can happen and a refurbishment needs to be done properly when I leave a a refurbished Pool it has new pipework Skimmers Lights, [Plaster, Lights and Tiles and no risk a better pool than it ever was.

  Do it once and do it right and you get repeat business.

  Kiwi www.poolquartz.co.nz
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  Michael Aschenbrenner June 9, 2011 at 3:10pm

  If you are replacing the tile in a filled pool, drin the water level down at least 6" below the tile, and pick up one of the rolls of painters plastic for around trim, ... get something about 2' wide. Then pick up some styrofoam tubing. Spread out your plastic and place your styrofoam tubing on one edge. Roll the plastic over the tubing and seal with a drop of waterproof silicone sealant, or some quicker drying, non water soluable glue. Next, put masking tape on the other end and push this against the wall of the pool right below the tile. Depending on whether you are simply having grout fall into the water, or whether you are chipping out the tile itself, you will need to change the grade of plastic, and the thickness of the styrofoam you use. I usually chip out the time and then net/vacuum out the pieces, and then use the above method when applying thinset and grout.  

       As with all taped surfaces, the area should be cleaned and dried before application, but then you should have this sort of surface before applying the thinset as well. With a longer piece of plastic, you can just double over the plastic and slide the styrofoam in one end, then tape both of the loose ends to the wall below the tile area.

       The main point of this is to catch things that normally harden and leave stains on the pool surface, like thinset and grout. If it falls into this plastic trough and hardens, even if you knock it into the pool later on, it's already hardened. Net it or vacuum it.

   
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  Randy Mann March 16, 2011 at 12:09pm

  if the pool is empty use sand to cover the plaster
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  Bill Conant March 15, 2011 at 1:03pm

  Around the returns we give it a pretty deep cut and try and expose around a half inch of the pipe if it is an unjetted return that way there is not much chance of water pressure working against the finish. Most times we are doing a complete strip out and are back down to gunite and bust out the material around niches,skimmers and plumbing as deep as practical. 
  
  Jared Mize said:

  When you guys replaster how much do you chip out around returns, drains and tile line?
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  Jared Mize March 14, 2011 at 6:51pm

  When you guys replaster how much do you chip out around returns, drains and tile line?
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  Darren Pellegrino March 12, 2011 at 1:03pm

  Yes indeed yes indeed. Thanks and enjoy, Hawk
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  Bill Conant March 12, 2011 at 7:59am

  None of them will really disintegrate that I know of. But as the plaster rehydrates the bond loosens on the adhesive and sluffs away. It just rolls off with a leather work glove after a few days of being underwater, also you can't see it either, and since pools get brushed religiously anyway (somebody slap me) , not much to worry about.

  I use the garden variety Super 77 or 88 (or some other double digit product, I can't remember) from HD or Lowes. There is a product in the sheetrock area they use for attaching drywall corners,it all seems like the same stuff to me, don't really know.

  I have had several clients decide they didn't like their tile choice after short time and have us re-do it. That is why God made T&M and fickle clients.

  Bill

   

   
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  Darren Pellegrino March 12, 2011 at 5:04am

  Glad your just sayin,lol. I could see where the tape would have a real tough time adhering to an exposed aggregate finish. 3M makes a number of spray adhesives some of which may not disintegrate underwater. Which one(s) have you been succesful with and how long will it remain on the surface underwater?
  
  Enjoy,
  
  Darren