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  • LONG AGO AND FAR AWAY,, had occason to help install a system on an exsisting vinyl pool .
    pool was drained,, liner pulled back,, in shallow end a port was installed thru wall down low,,, a flat ; low profile galvanized sheet metal disc was installed over port and attached to wall,,,, outside of pool a line was run to a catch basin with a flost pump in it.
    owner could turn pump on at random when in rainy season. consider this an extreme rare case scenario.
  • Jay
    On new construction you have a couple of options. In the deep end of the pool you can excavate about 1' deeper than your rough dig an area about 3' in diameter, run a trench straight back towards your deep end wall past where your panel sit.
    Lay a 2" pvc pipe in the trench. The pipe end that is in the 3" "pit", should be cut in a perpindicular fashion in several locations to make the pipe perforated and allow water to enter. Hayward also makes a pre-made pipe-check their catalog. Wrap the end with landscape fabric to prevent sand and silt from clogging. Then, fill the pit and the trench with crushed stone/gravel. Cover over with your pool base as usual.
    The end of the pipe that is under the panel and extended towards the finished deck height, can be hooked up to a standard pool pump and let it run as needed. Depending on the severity of the water condition, the pump may have to run continuously. You don't really need a large HP pump-1/2 HP seems to work well.

    The other option is to bury an electric sump pump. They typically have a garden hose connection but I generally run a rigid pipe up to the surface and then go to a garden hose. This is more or less a one shot deal as the pump may not work the next time the liner is change. The stand alone PVC pipe can be left permanently and be accessable any time in the future.

    On existing pools with water problems. A well point would have to be installed somewhere around the pools perimeter. That's a hit or miss situation.

    Most liners float because the ground water table is high and it will eminate from the lowest point. Perimeter drainage helps a little but most of the ground water comes from below. If the surrounding patio and property is pitched in such a way to keep water away from the structure, surface water won't be a factor. Certain soil conditions contribute to water problems as well.

    On several liner replacements in the past where we had a high water table, we installed a "dummy" main drain just to utilize the hydrostatic port to pull water through. We would dig out the pool base and install gravel, set the drain and begin pumping the water usually with a small electric pump that would fit in the the drain. Set the liner in the shallow end,and remove the pump at the last moment as we got to the deep end and hope the water would not come in faster than we snapped in the liner!

    Hope this helps. Good luck
  • On new construction I always set up a blind line that you can hook a pump up too and also a hydrostatic valve in the main drain
  • under the concrete. If you set up drainage (french drain) next to the footer slightly lower than the wall, you will prevent the water from coming in and instead redirect it elsewhere in the yard or to a drain. something that is so simple, yet overlooked too many times.
  • One common oversight i see in new construction is the lack of drainage around the pool. Typically this is left out and it gets very frustrating to explain to a homeowner that for a few hundred dollars in supplies, when everything was dug out this could have been prevented.
    • Thanks Matt,

      when you say "drainage" do you mean around the pool area surface or under the pool area?

      Matt Cellura said:
      One common oversight i see in new construction is the lack of drainage around the pool. Typically this is left out and it gets very frustrating to explain to a homeowner that for a few hundred dollars in supplies, when everything was dug out this could have been prevented.
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